The more popular the Louis Vuitton bag, the more likely you are going to come across a lot of counterfeits in the marketplace. Such is the case for the Louis Vuitton Neverfull. Despite being around since 1998 this bag has grown wildly popular in the past 5 years and for good reason. It’s classically styled and has so many practical uses that you will never want to get rid of your bag. I personally would be weary of any used Neverfull because no savvy buyer would ever part with this bag. I would give up my Speedies before I would part with my Neverfull. So since the Neverfull has drastically increased in popularity, and it’s such a simple design, the market has been flooded with dozens of knock-offs making it incredibly difficult for an untrained buyer to determine if any pre-owned Neverfull being sold online is actually authentic. Let’s look at the step-by-step guide to follow when authenticating a Louis Vuitton Neverfull.
The other day my cousin who was also carrying her Neverfull GM Damier in Ebene and we noticed that our interior linings didn’t match. The lining of my Neverfull had fleur and circles while hers was just stripes. She received a matching carrying clutch with her Neverfull and I got only the bag itself. If it hasn’t been for my background in authentication we would have probably both been thinking that the other person’s bag was a fake. Fortunately I knew the answer to why two authentic Neverfulls have different linings and I want to make sure that all my other Louis Vuitton lovers understand how to authenticate a Neverfull as well. With so many new interior colors coming out year over year following this entire checklist is really important to ensure that you don’t fall victim to a fake Neverfull.
Louis Vuitton Neverfull Fun Facts
- Print first produced: 2007
- Damier: literal translation “checkerboard”
- Sizes Available: PM, MM, GM
- Color Waves: Azure – cream/gray combination, Ebene – brown/gray combination
- Made of: Canvas treated with fabric and a vachetta leather trim. On the Ebene style the leather has a PPC coating.
- Durability: GM can carry up to 200 pounds ++
- Second Hand Resale: Hold their value really well
The Complete Guide to Authenticating a Louis Vuitton Neverfull (Damier)
Step 1. Check the date code
The date code should always be tucked behind the wide inner pocket. Replicas might put the date code someplace more obvious to sway their buyers into being convinced by seeing it. No matter what year your Neverfull is, the date code should be in the correct place with the letters and numbers evenly spaced.
Step 2. Review the checkerboard
There are only 8 Louis Vuitton marks on the dark brown checkerboard square on each side of the Neverfull GM. The bottom has only 1.
Step 3. Look at the interior base
On the inside of a real Neverfull the base should be a solid color, not printed with the strip or the pattern.
Step 4. Examine the interior bindings
Authentic Neverfull bags should have seamed binding on the interior base and a grosgrain ribbon that reinforces the sides.
Step 5. Interior pocket length
Extends all the way to the inside base of the bag, doesn’t stop part way.
Step 6. Printed lining
Based on an archive LV print. Because of their recent popularity there are no monogram and Damier bags with different colored linings. Make sure that the collection and color lining that you are looking at on the bag match what was produced by Louis Vuitton.
Step 7. Brown not black
The Ebene Damier bag is much more brown than black. Replicas will be more black.
Step 8. Canvas not leather
The Neverfull is actually a canvas bag, not leather. The only leather on the bag will be the vachetta leather trim and on the Ebene style the leather will have a PPC coating and will never get a patina. For a well used bag the canvas will become more soften slightly while a new Neverfull will be more stiff.
Step 9. Lining pattern variety
Depends on the interior color and year. Bags as recent as 2011 will show fleur and circles but shortly after (uncertain of the exact year) they started producing bags with just the stripe lining.
Example: Both of these bags 2011 and 2013 are authentic – but the 2011 bag has the fleur and the 2013 bag has only stripes. If you are looking at purchasing a pre-owned Neverfull and the date code shows that it was produced prior to 2013, there should be fleurs on the lining not just solid stripes. Read this article to learn how to analyze a date code.
Step 10. Try the zipper
High quality zippers and cheap zippers move very differently. Even after decades of using a Louis Vuitton that zipper will still run smoothly and never snag.
Step 11. Count the stitches per inch
The mark of fine craftsmanship is stitches per inch. Fake bags will have less stitches per inch and real ones will have more. I generally count no less than 7-8 stitches per inch.
Step 12. Check the straps and d-ring
The straps, when pulled in reduce the size of the bag. The can be secured to the inside of the bag to make it more sturdy. The exterior straps should have a d-ring on the end, not a buckle.
Step 13. Examine the hot stamp
The hot stamp should be crisp, straight, 3 lines, short legged L, very circular “O’s”, R in a circle on top of the Louis Vuitton.
Step 14. Look for straight stitch lines
The stitch line on a Louis Vuitton should be nearly perfect. It should always remain equal distance from the edge of the handbag at every point, and for the entire length of the stitch. There should be no irregular stitch lengths.
Whether you are purchasing from a luxury consignment store or online, following this checklist as closely as possible is the very best way to ensure that a pre-owned Neverfull, or any Louis Vuitton is authentic. Keep in mind this is such a great and versatile bag I rarely see people who own it willing to part with it. So unless you are purchasing from a creditable online premium luxury handbag retailer be very wary of replicas especially the Japanese Super Fake!
Looking for an authentication guide for all Louis Vuitton bags? Check out the in-depth: Checklist to Authenticate a Pre-Owned Louis Vuitton