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Step by Step Guide to Authenticate a Louis Vuitton Neverfull

September 7, 2016

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The more popular the Louis Vuitton bag, the more likely you are going to come across a lot of counterfeits in the marketplace.  Such is the case for the Louis Vuitton Neverfull.  Despite being around since 1998 this bag has grown wildly popular in the past 5 years and for good reason. It’s classically styled and has so many practical uses that you will never want to get rid of your bag.  I personally would be wary of any used Neverfull because no savvy buyer would ever part with this bag.  I would give up my Speedies before I would part with my Neverfull. So since the Neverfull has drastically increased in popularity, and it’s such a simple design, the market has been flooded with dozens of knock-offs making it incredibly difficult for an untrained buyer to determine if any pre-owned Neverfull being sold online is actually authentic. Let’s look at the step-by-step guide to follow when authenticating a Louis Vuitton Neverfull.

The other day my cousin who was also carrying her Neverfull GM Damier in Ebene and we noticed that our interior linings didn’t match.  The lining of my Neverfull had fleur and circles while hers was just stripes.  She received a matching carrying clutch with her Neverfull and I got only the bag itself. If it hasn’t been for my background in authentication we would have probably both been thinking that the other person’s bag was a fake.  Fortunately, I knew the answer to why two authentic Neverfulls have different linings and I want to  make sure that all my other Louis Vuitton lovers understand how to authenticate a Neverfull as well.  With so many new interior colors coming out year over year following this entire checklist is really important to ensure that you don’t fall victim to a fake Neverfull.

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Despite having different interior linings both of these Neverfull bags are authentic. Which makes it even tricker to spot a fake.

Louis Vuitton Neverfull Fun Facts

  • Print first produced: 2007
  • Damier: literal translation “checkerboard”
  • Sizes Available: PM, MM, GM
  • Color Waves: Azure – cream/gray combination, Ebene – brown/gray combination
  • Made of: Canvas treated with fabric and a vachetta leather trim. On the Ebene style the leather has a PPC coating.
  • Durability: GM can carry up to 200 pounds ++
  • Second Hand Resale: Hold their value really well

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The Complete Guide to Authenticating a Louis Vuitton Neverfull (Damier)

Step 1. Check the date code

The date code should always be tucked behind the wide inner pocket. Replicas might put the date code someplace more obvious to sway their buyers into being convinced by seeing it. No matter what year your Neverfull is, the date code should be in the correct place with the letters and numbers evenly spaced.

Step 2. Review the checkerboard

There are only 8 Louis Vuitton marks on the dark brown checkerboard square on each side of the Neverfull GM. The bottom has only 1.

Step 3. Look at the interior base 

On the inside of a real Neverfull, the base should be a solid color, not printed with the strip or the pattern.

Step 4. Examine the interior bindings

Authentic Neverfull bags should have seamed binding on the interior base and a grosgrain ribbon that reinforces the sides.

Step 5. Interior pocket length

Extends all the way to the inside base of the bag, doesn’t stop part way.

Step 6. Printed lining

Based on an archive LV print. Because of their recent popularity, there are no monogram and Damier bags with different colored linings. Make sure that the collection and color lining that you are looking at on the bag match what was produced by Louis Vuitton.

Step 7. Brown not black

The Ebene Damier bag is much more brown than black. Replicas will be more black.

Step 8. Canvas not leather

The Neverfull is actually a canvas bag, not leather. The only leather on the bag will be the vachetta leather trim and on the Ebene style the leather will have a PPC coating and will never get a patina. For a well used bag the canvas will become more soften slightly while a new Neverfull will be more stiff.

Step 9. Lining pattern variety 

Depends on the interior color and year. Bags as recent as 2011 will show fleur and circles but shortly after (uncertain of the exact year) they started producing bags with just the stripe lining.

Example: Both of these bags 2011 and 2013 are authentic – but the 2011 bag has the fleur and the 2013 bag has only stripes. If you are looking at purchasing a pre-owned Neverfull and the date code shows that it was produced prior to 2013, there should be fleurs on the lining not just solid stripes.  Read this article to learn how to analyze a date code

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Step 10. Try the zipper

High quality zippers and cheap zippers move very differently. Even after decades of using a Louis Vuitton that zipper will still run smoothly and never snag.

Step 11. Count the stitches per inch

The mark of fine craftsmanship is stitches per inch. Fake bags will have less stitches per inch and real ones will have more. I generally count no less than 7-8 stitches per inch.

Step 12. Check the straps and d-ring

The straps, when pulled in reduce the size of the bag. The can be secured to the inside of the bag to make it more sturdy.  The exterior straps should have a d-ring on the end, not a buckle.

Step 13. Examine the hot stamp

The hot stamp should be crisp, straight, 3 lines, short legged L, very circular “O’s”, R in a circle on top of the Louis Vuitton.

Step 14. Look for straight stitch lines

The stitch line on a Louis Vuitton should be nearly perfect. It should always remain an equal distance from the edge of the handbag at every point, and for the entire length of the stitch. There should be no irregular stitch lengths.

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Final Thoughts

Whether you are purchasing from a luxury consignment store or online, following this checklist as closely as possible is the very best way to ensure that a pre-owned Neverfull, or any Louis Vuitton is authentic.  Keep in mind this is such a great and versatile bag I rarely see people who own it willing to part with it. So unless you are purchasing from a credible online premium luxury handbag retailer be very wary of replicas especially the Japanese Super Fake!

Looking for an authentication guide for all Louis Vuitton bags?  Check out the in-depth: Checklist to Authenticate a Pre-Owned Louis Vuitton

 In Gratitude Legos in my Louis

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16 Comments

  • Reply Windy April 16, 2017 at 6:27 pm

    Where did you get this info on one L sauare on the bottom?

    • Reply Angie K July 25, 2017 at 3:32 pm

      Wondering the same thing. Is it possible for a real bag to have more than one L stamp on the bottom? I have read that there are inconsistencies between real products as they are handmade.
      Thanks.

  • Reply othman April 17, 2017 at 6:33 am

    is the bag with a serial number of M80002 is real or fake

    • Reply Ian Vogeler October 19, 2018 at 11:06 pm

      they can stamp a bag with a serial and that could be a valid date code and country but wrong bag so you need more info or to ask more for an accurate answer

  • Reply Beverly August 2, 2017 at 8:44 pm

    I went to the LV store, my Neverfull Damien fm was made in 2011 it has the fleur de lease and inverted flower in the red stripe lining, and 4 LV in the squares at the outside base of the bag. It was authenticated, yet you say 1 LV on the base. Everything else is in place.

    • Reply anna reyes September 30, 2017 at 4:00 pm

      I believe she must have mean 1 LV on MM and 4 on GM

  • Reply Tiffany August 12, 2017 at 3:09 pm

    My Neverfull GM has 4 squares on the bottom and my Neverfull MM has 1 square on the bottom.

  • Reply Alicia Rodgers November 22, 2018 at 8:35 am

    I just bough my LV Neverfull monogram with the dark pink inside. Just stripes, and solid bottom. I bought it at LV store in Saks
    However it doesn’t have a serial number inside. Would you know why?

    • Reply Betsy November 29, 2018 at 5:29 pm

      Hi Alicia! Congrats on your new bag. I’m pretty certain the date code is there but just tucked out of sight. Try flipping the pocket outside of the bag and looking under it at the seam. Hope that helps!

  • Reply Jenn January 1, 2019 at 8:31 pm

    I ordered my LV bag online from the LV.com
    And the serial number is written in red, not embossed in the leather?? Also the LV is written 4 times in the bottom of my GM

    • Reply Betsy January 7, 2019 at 11:15 pm

      Hi Jenn! I wouldn’t worry about any bag being ordered directly from Louis Vuitton not being authentic, they don’t sell replicas of their own bags. Hope that helps gives you clarity.

  • Reply Jule January 15, 2019 at 2:18 am

    Hi! I recently bought a pre owned louis vuitton bag online without having done much research as to whether or not its really authentic or not. I can’t find any numbers or date codes on the bag itself but it is apparently a bag from the 90’s so I’ve read that the date codes can start to wear out over time and become hard to see. I was hoping you would be able to help me figure out the bags name/ description and whether or not its authentic. Thank you!

    • Reply Betsy January 31, 2019 at 5:37 pm

      Hi! I would definitely recommend getting the bag authenticated. Once you sign up and we’ve finalized your authentication there are options to add on a certificate, item valuation etc. Feel free to sign up here and let us know if you have any questions https://legosinmylouis.com/louis-vuitton-authentication-services/ Hope that helps!

  • Reply Patchary February 20, 2019 at 5:35 am

    Hi there can any one help me? I can’t find the date code to my Louis Vuitton neverfull Mm , it’s the newer one that comes with the pouch , I bought it from than store and I never looked m, but now I’m selling it people keep asking me what is the date code ?
    I have many LV bags and have sold a lot of me old ones so far I find the date code even on my older model of the neverfull ,

    I have also sold the pouch that case with this bag and there was a date code in the pouch , but for some reason I cannot find the date code to the neverfull?

    Could it be that the date code is the same code as the pouch ? Or does it have its own separate date code ??

  • Reply Vicki K March 20, 2019 at 10:49 am

    Replicas, the super high quality ones have all these details down. So they could pass all of these criteria with flying colors.

    • Reply Betsy March 20, 2019 at 11:33 am

      Hi Vicki! Thanks so much for commenting. Very popular bags like the Neverfull and the Pochette definitely require a very thorough review especially when you are looking at the bag online and not in person.

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